Cage Considerations
A good chinchilla cage should be big and made from a hard material like metal. Chinchillas can gnaw through most plastics, rubbers and woods. Wood can also absorb urine or water and warp. It needs to be well ventilated and have bars that are small enough that a chinchilla can't squeeze through (0.5 inch for babies, 1 inch for most adults). You also want something that will be easy to clean, so no tiny doors.
A multi-level cage works best. It gives plenty of space for exercise, toys, beds and everything else your chinchilla will need.
There are some materials that are toxic to chinchillas that you will need to stay away from. These include: Cyprus, cedar, chestnut, birch, cherry, mahogany, teak, walnut, and anything that has been treated with pesticides or chemicals.
Plastics should also be avoided as they can create sharp edges if gnawed on by your pet.
You could also consider getting rid of the ramps your cage will most likely come with and replacing them with ledges. Chinchillas are built to hop and can easily navigate a cage like this. Notice how the cages below do not have ramps.
A multi-level cage works best. It gives plenty of space for exercise, toys, beds and everything else your chinchilla will need.
There are some materials that are toxic to chinchillas that you will need to stay away from. These include: Cyprus, cedar, chestnut, birch, cherry, mahogany, teak, walnut, and anything that has been treated with pesticides or chemicals.
Plastics should also be avoided as they can create sharp edges if gnawed on by your pet.
You could also consider getting rid of the ramps your cage will most likely come with and replacing them with ledges. Chinchillas are built to hop and can easily navigate a cage like this. Notice how the cages below do not have ramps.
Diet
Chinchillas are herbivores with a sensitive digestive tract and require a high fiber diet. They should have fresh hay provided daily. A basic diet should consist of fresh chinchilla pellets, timothy hay, and water. A chinchilla's diet should be a balance of 1/3 fiber, 1/3 carbohydrate, 1/6 protein, with the remainder consisting of meager amounts of fats, sugar and minerals. Anything other than this will have effects on a chinchilla's health. A low protein diet will yield a dull and thread-bare coat. Although treats are tempting, sugary foods such as raisins and too much dried fruit can lead to diarrhea. Dried rose hips are very high in fiber and one a day is a prefect treat option.
Safe treats and foods to avoid
Good foods:
Good treat foods include:
Mountain Ash Berries
Fruit Tree Twigs
Dried Rose Hips
Dried Herbs - Dandelion, nettles, rosemary
Marshmallow Root
'Safe' Food:
Vitamins and Minerals - If they have a complete diet, these should be unnecessary. Fruits - Apples, pears and strawberry. Sparingly as they can cause diarrhea. Treat Sticks - Very sparingly as they have lots of salt and sugar.
Foods to avoid:
Chocolate. Grains. Porridge Oats. Corn/Maize. Nuts and Seeds. Vegetables and Greens - Can cause bloat!
Tap Water - Boil first. Pellet Mixes - They'll pick and choose what they want to eat, not necessarily a balanced diet. Tree Bark - Even with safe wood, the bark can cause problems
Safe Wood:
Fruit bearing trees - Apple, pear, grape. Alder berry. Bamboo. Cottonwood. Crab Apple. Dogwood Rose. Elm. Hazelnut. Horse Apple. Kiwi. Mulberry. Pine - Untreated and kiln dried. Willow - Weeping, goat, or pussy
Unsafe Wood:
Any tree that produces a stone - Peach, cherry, plum. Almond. Beech. Birch. Cashew. Cedar - Not even for shavings. Chestnut. Citrus Wood - Lemon, orange. Elderberry. Eucalyptus. Fir. Juniper. Maple. Oak. Pine - Freshly cut or bark. Pine cones. Rosewood. Sandalwood. Sycamore. Teak. Walnut. Yew
Never give a sick chinchilla treats until they are better. Treats can upset their digestive tract. Chinchillas with on-going problems should only be given treats that will not make it worse. There are also some treats that should not be given to a pregnant chinchilla as they can affect the developing babies.
Good treat foods include:
Mountain Ash Berries
Fruit Tree Twigs
Dried Rose Hips
Dried Herbs - Dandelion, nettles, rosemary
Marshmallow Root
'Safe' Food:
Vitamins and Minerals - If they have a complete diet, these should be unnecessary. Fruits - Apples, pears and strawberry. Sparingly as they can cause diarrhea. Treat Sticks - Very sparingly as they have lots of salt and sugar.
Foods to avoid:
Chocolate. Grains. Porridge Oats. Corn/Maize. Nuts and Seeds. Vegetables and Greens - Can cause bloat!
Tap Water - Boil first. Pellet Mixes - They'll pick and choose what they want to eat, not necessarily a balanced diet. Tree Bark - Even with safe wood, the bark can cause problems
Safe Wood:
Fruit bearing trees - Apple, pear, grape. Alder berry. Bamboo. Cottonwood. Crab Apple. Dogwood Rose. Elm. Hazelnut. Horse Apple. Kiwi. Mulberry. Pine - Untreated and kiln dried. Willow - Weeping, goat, or pussy
Unsafe Wood:
Any tree that produces a stone - Peach, cherry, plum. Almond. Beech. Birch. Cashew. Cedar - Not even for shavings. Chestnut. Citrus Wood - Lemon, orange. Elderberry. Eucalyptus. Fir. Juniper. Maple. Oak. Pine - Freshly cut or bark. Pine cones. Rosewood. Sandalwood. Sycamore. Teak. Walnut. Yew
Never give a sick chinchilla treats until they are better. Treats can upset their digestive tract. Chinchillas with on-going problems should only be given treats that will not make it worse. There are also some treats that should not be given to a pregnant chinchilla as they can affect the developing babies.
Exercise Requirements and Toys
An important thing to consider when thinking about adopting a chinchilla is how much time you have to devote to play. Chinchillas are most active in the morning and night but do enjoy a good play time! It is essential to let your chinchilla out for a 20-40 minute run at least once a day. There are other options available for days where time runs short. Exercise wheels are great but the correct type of wheel must be chosen. Standard wheels normally seen in hamster cages are not suitable for chinchillas. The crossbars easily catch delicate limbs and cause breaks and fractures. Specialty made chinchilla disks and runners (like the one seen below) should be installed to avoid accidents.
Nesting Needs
Chinchillas should be able to get away from each other and have their own space. Hammocks, shacks, tubes, and a nest box are all good. There should be at least one nest box per chinchilla. Suitable bedding materials include: shavings, shredded paper, soft hay, newspaper, and recycled wood or card board. Make sure they have plenty of soft thing to curl up with in their nest box (soft hay or shredded paper). Snack Shacks (as found in pet stores or online) should be avoided. They contain honey which is not good for your chinchilla.
Other Needs
One more important feature of any chinchilla cage is the dust bath! A chinchilla's coat is very dense and prevents water from reaching the skin, which in the wild is a protective feature. However, in the wild the chinchilla has access to dust and sand. The dust bath is necessary to help keep the coat healthy and clean. The dust helps to absorb the oils from the coat while also allowing the chinchilla to indulge in a fun and calming habit. For pet purposes, specially made chinchilla dust should be bought from pet stores. Normal sand and dust could have irritants or bacteria which may harm your chinchilla so should be avoided.